Where & What to Eat Eating is serious business in this place. It has acquired such fame that any old place that serves fiery rasam and nethili varuval calls it chettinad cuisine and tries to build a reputation around it. But if you are a serious gourmet, don't even think of leaving this district till you have tried every permutation of the nandu (crab) and yerra (prawn) ranging from varuvals (fries) puttus (mince) to curries, the sizzling rasams, the rabbit dry fry, the soft kal dosais and idiappams with coconut milk and korma, the paruppu -urundai kozhambu (dal koftas in hot tamarind gravy), and of course the Paal paniharam (a special Kheer). The good news is you can't go too wrong if you eat cheap at the local joints as long as you specify the degree of chillis you can tolerate. But if you want lovingly prepared home-cooked splendour, spend a bomb at The Bangala (Rs 800per meal) The prices at Chettinadu Mansion is (Rs 350 per person) but if you are just driving through, both places need advance booking.

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